Clara in Italy: Montecassino

November 29, 2016

So remember when I wrote an entire post about how much I hated the Cappella dei Principi? I spent some time later thinking about the decor because I do really love inlay work, but my professor mentioned that it was so overwhelming and contrary to her design aesthetics. I wondered if that was also playing into my general hatred of the space in addition to the horrible power dynamics.

But then we stopped at Montecassino on the way to Naples, and I think yes, there is something to it.

Here’s Montecassino:

mc1.jpg

Or at least, a part of the courtyard. It’s hard to get a picture of it in totality. Montecassino is one of the first (or the first? I think) monasteries of the Benedictine order. It was basically razed to the ground by Allied bombing during WWII, but has been reconstructed.

But look at the interior of the church!!

church2.jpgchurch1.jpgchurch3

None of this is original of course, but it’s still really beautiful. And golden. Here’s where it gets really cool though–look at this stone inlay work!

inlay1.jpg

What!! It’s everywhere.

inlay4inlay2inlay3

But I really like it here as opposed to how much it gave me the really bad shivers in San Lorenzo. Somehow, it feels warmer, you know? I still have my bones to pick with Christianity (I never won’t), but this place is lovely.

Interestingly, there is still a Medici buried here.

pierograve.jpg

There he is. Piero the Unfortunate. (The Pieros of the Medici family really got the raw end of the deal when it came to being remembered, by the way. Piero the Unfortunate and Piero the Gouty. Yikes.) He was driven from Florence during the French invasion, but was eventually given this tomb here. Still a large, imposing, obnoxious Medici tomb, but you know. It’s a little different when you’re Piero the Unfortunate instead of Cosimo the Grandduke of Tuscany. :/ He didn’t even ask for this tomb. A later Medici pope (can’t remember which?) had it made for him.

Also, there are some bronze doors from Constantinople outside, which is pretty rad, though we couldn’t figure out if these were replicas or the real thing.

constdoors.jpg

That’s my art history professor being a nerd. She’s great.

What’s the point of this post? Honestly, I don’t know. I liked Montecassino. It felt serene and safe and magical. Even though it had similar decorative techniques to the San Lorenzo chapel (even similar motifs!), it was just. Nicer. Kinder maybe? Perhaps this is just because what I know of the two places informs my impressions, but anyways. I’d definitely recommend going to Montecassino over the Cappella any day.

mc2.jpg

Stay determined.


Clara in Italy: Power and Violence in the Cappella dei Principi

November 10, 2016

So this is going to be a fairly short post since it’s just something I’ve been thinking about since my class went our trip to Florence.

Basically, it just boils down to how much I hate this room:

cdp1

For a little more context, here’s a photo of San Lorenzo, the Medici church in Florence from above.

sanlorenzo

Taken from wikimedia commons because sadly I don’t have a camera drone for aerial shots, though that would definitely be awesome

That gigantic domed piece right there? That’s this room. The Cappella dei Principi. The Chapel of the Princes. It’s absolutely beautiful inside. Everything is made of inlaid stone. Like!! Man, inlaid wood is amazing enough, but inlaid stone is something else. And it really is pretty much everything in there.

cdp2.jpg

That’s not a painting. Nothing in that is painted, not the shading, the colors, anything. It’s just carefully cut stone merged together seamlessly.

Here are some more detail shots of the inlay work around the place.

It really is incredible. It’s the sort of fine craftsmanship that I’d love to be able to do because fine craftsmanship is my jam. (Speaking of which, bring back respect for craft as art. Or bring back respect for art as craft? …. both??? That’s an argument for another day I suppose, but essentially, tear down the hierarchy of art and respect all forms of it as skilled labor that requires practice as opposed to the magic of talent. I feel like I’ve already had this rant…)

Still, there’s something really viscerally horrible about this room. The pictures really don’t explain it. You can probably look up more photos, but I just. It’s awful. There’s some kind of vague hymnal singing being played over speakers quietly, and it felt like the least sincere sacred space I have ever been in.There’s an altar and there are candles and it’s a chapel in a church, but it’s terribly oppressive despite the massive domed ceiling and sense of space.

You’d think I’d still have liked it–the decorative style is just so lovely. Maybe it was just too much. I don’t know. My book arts professor told me it made her grumpy too, so that was validating. I think, though, that it was really what my art history professor said at dinner: there’s something really violent about that much power.

This is the place that Hitler and Mussolini chose to meet in the 40s. This is the physical manifestation of riches and some serious 16th century conspicuous consumption. We are powerful, and we want you all to know it. To me, that’s vicious.

cdp7

Do you see those sarcophagi? They’re like 8 feet off the ground and bigger than trucks. To command so much personal space for your dead corpse–that says something too.

I don’t know what about this makes it so different from the massive Gothic churches that I like so much, but maybe it’s the division between the (ostensibly) public and the (explicitly) private that gets to me. At least churches were supposedly meant to be shared with the people at large. This just feels cold and parasitic.

Is that too harsh? The sort of anger and hyperreactivity you’d expect from a far-left women’s studies minor? Maybe. But I’ll hold to it. Visiting all of these grand monuments and churches and beautiful spaces and art havens, it’s still uneasy to me when I think about the price. It happened 600 years ago, sure, but it’s still happening now. I don’t want to lie to myself about what material awesomeness comes from.

Hope that wasn’t too much of a downer, but I want it to be something we reflect on more often. Art is not just art. History is not a vacuum, and we should not forget that. This wasn’t worded as well as I wanted it to be, and nor did it really convey what I felt, but I hope that it has come close enough to be understood.

Stay determined. The sun will still rise tomorrow.


Clara in Italy: Isola Maggiore

October 21, 2016

Soooooo, it’s definitely been a while since I posted anything. I have a super compressed semester (like, half the time or something? Ten weeks??), and the crunch is sort of unbelievable sometimes. So here we are, and I really do want to write about a lot of stuff! But I suppose I will start with my drawing class’ trip to Isola Maggiore, a little island out on a lake not too far from Cortona.

There’s the lake in the distance!

1lake.jpg

Fair warning, this post might be a bit over-detailed and boring, mostly because I just really, really loved this trip. I had a really lovely time.

Our first stop was a little town called Passignano sul Trasimeno right on the shore. Also a very lovely place, where I found lots of tiny enamel pins of American alternative bands from like the early aughts/90s? what.

(Did I buy them? Yes. Yes, I did. Because I’m trash.)

And then there was a ferry that we had to ride to get to the island itself, which has a permanent population possibly in the single digits.

I just think people are really lovely when they’re looking off of a ferry. Maybe that’s a bit weird. Anyways, here’s a first view of the island itself!

6im1.jpg

So full of trees and rocks! And there’s a castle (which I’ll get to later, but like seriously, the castle). To be totally honest though, my very first priority was getting myself to the lace museum, which was definitely worth it.

From what I can gather, this is actually a form of Irish crocheted lace, which you can see from the close-ups. Just. Crocheted with extremely thin thread. I totally want to learn how to do it. It’s just so lovely and incredible. I took a bazillion pictures of all the patterns I thought were really cool. To be honest, it doesn’t look particularly difficult in terms of pattern–just… size. And execution. Pretty sure I understand how it works for the most part, but dear lord. Thread thread thread!

There was also a door at the very top of the stairs that led to an empty attic room that I perhaps should not have been in, but it was definitely open, so…?

Back to the lace. Apparently, the woman who brought it to the island wanted to teach the women of the island a viable trade to make a living there in the first half of the 20th century. It’s actually a practice that’s mostly died out by now, but there are still maybe three or four women who still do it. They’re really nice and very skilled. I mean, they’ve been making this lace for longer than my current lifespan several times over, so I suppose that’s not surprising, but damn.

 

Seriously. How. I bought a piece of her lace since she was selling. It’s a little soft beige piece.

Back to the island. And the great photo opportunities! Just look at the textures of the wood and all this interesting stuff! Is that a fairy ring on the ground? Did the wood grow into a circle that way or is it magic? Or both?? Who knows!

17im4.jpg

Cool lizards on a burnt tree! Rusty… thing! (feat. lens flare)

Trash?

20im7.jpg

And castle. Which was apparently forbidden. But there was a gate that was wide open with no signs on it that just looked like a road, so half the class wandered over apparently. It’s easy to see why it’s forbidden. The whole thing looks like it’s about to come down around your ears.

 

And there was this abandoned boat just sitting there?

29boat.jpg

Anyways. Really cool place. Kind of terrifying. Very fun. Glad I went. Also found lots of nice bones on this island that haven’t been cleaned yet, or I would definitely post pictures. Someday! When I’m not being slowly crushed under the weight of academia maybe!!

Also I made this little watercolor of the landscape. It’s all right, I think! I should have definitely done more actual drawing, but man, the island was just too exciting.

watercolor.png

I think I’ve talked enough about this island. Basically, I highly recommend it for anyone like me who likes weird and pretty stuff! And spending some time alone. That was nice too. I’ll leave you with a final view from Passignano sul Trasimeno of the lake itself. They said it would rain, but! We had a really wonderful day.

30pst2.jpg

Until the next time I manage to get enough time to sit down and write. 🙂 Stay determined!

 


Clara in Italy: Settling in??

September 19, 2016

This is probably one of the fastest-paced programs I’ve ever been in, in that every day feels packed and it is in fact almost a month shorter than a typical semester. So here we are cramming a semester of work into about 80 days! Woo! That does make it really hard to keep up with everything that I’m supposed to be doing, I have to admit.

We’re here in Cortona, a hill town in Tuscany, and the view is super killer.

sunset.JPG

Admittedly, walking up and down the hill multiple times a day is also kind of killer… Oh well, I suppose it might balance out the gigantic Italian meals that we keep eating. Not gonna lie, all I want is a simple, one-course meal with rice and Chinese food. D: Not that everything isn’t delicious or anything, but dang. I feel quite squishy and sleepy every night when we hike back up to our dorm immediately after dinner. It’s honestly one of the weirdest parts of being here. I could definitely stand to have dinner last a little less time. Three hours is very long and exhausting.

Pretty much every Saturday, we head off to a different city in Italy to talk about art history, which is very cool. (Also exhausting.) In the last two weeks, we’ve already been to Siena, Assisi, and Perugia, and seen some really pretty amazing stuff. Especially this 13th century graffiti on the walls of the Palazzo Publico! What!!

graffiti1graffiti2

If you look closely on the upper red strip in the first picture, there’s a “1464” scratched into the stone. Above it to the left on the white, there’s a “1482”. There’s stuff in Greek in there! And also some stuff from the 19th century–at least one little inscription from 1848. I’m always here for traces of humanity and imperfections. Masterpieces are all well and good, but I’m more interested in scratches on the wall and personalized inscriptions in books. And unfinished paintings, because understanding process is so valuable, you know?

And reliquaries of course! Well, those are a special interest to me too I suppose, since I think bones are super cool. There was a lovely one that had a partial skeleton arranged nicely with a flower crown and a lot of jewels. Bury me like this. Feed my flesh to the plants or whatever, but make me into a nice mantelpiece with flowers.

reliquary.jpg

… that’s kind of weird, isn’t it. But I think he looks pretty good for being dead all these years.

Speaking of bones, I’ve already amassed a nice little collection of natural history stuff since we got here! A lovely starling skeleton, some juvenile pigeon bones, a whole bowl of empty snail shells, and some very interesting insects, including a full grasshopper shed and a cicada shed. Oh, and two snake sheds that were inside a hole in the wall! Plus a convulvulus moth and a fiery hunter beetle. The faculty resource room has some really amazing insects as well, with some seriously giant beetles. Cool as heck!!

At least look at my starling skull. I think it’s quite beautiful.

starling.jpg

Classes are going well, but a  little stressfully. I’ve almost filled a whole sketchbook since I got here, and the number of photos I’ve taken is sort of staggering. But hey, I’ve got a flickr now and I think I’m getting a little bit better at taking pictures. Sort of. It’s a little up in the air. Follow me or something. I’m doing my best.

To finish, here’s a picture of darling Squiggle, our newest stray University cat with a bent tail and the guy bringing harmony to the cats.

squiggle

Seriously, he’s the cutest and the best.

Stay determined!


Clara in Italy: Rome (aka thank god we’re out of there)

September 8, 2016

The last week has been a bit of a whirlwind! I feel like I haven’t stopped walking since I landed in Rome. I sound like an old woman, but seriously, my knees and ankles and hips are all feeling pretty creaky and sore. All that cobblestone is taking its toll.

Before I get to Rome though, look at this poster in the Dublin airport!

billyelliot.JPG

One of my top musicals! The first I ever saw on Broadway when I was fifteen and I cried buckets. It was a good time. Wish I could see it again.

To be honest, I don’t really want to talk about Rome that much. It was certainly very cool, but it was also super draining and crowded. Walking through the Vatican museum was honestly awful. Very hot, very crowded etc. etc. I know the highlights there are The School of Athens and the Sistine chapel ceiling, but here are two of my favorite pieces: the Van Gogh Pieta and a bust of Keokuk.

keokuk

vgpieta.JPG

I know these are terrible pictures but then again, what isn’t a terrible picture in a museum?

We also went to the Borghese Gallery, which had some breathtaking Berninis. I’ve been dying to see those in person since I came across images of them. I know there’s other cool stuff there, but you’re only allowed to stay for two hours and it was terribly stressful to try and rush through a museum full of fabulous Berninis. As I’ve said, photos do no justice, but I guess at least look at this angle of The Abduction of Proserpine:

prosperinebernini.JPG

Especially that hand. How does he do it? That’s solid rock, and I’m still very suspiciously ready to poke it to make absolute sure.

Also look at this delicious coffee:

moretta.JPG

I generally dislike coffee, but this was tasty as heck.

But then! The highlight of Rome (for me, anyways) was definitely this exhibit though:

muchaex.JPG

An ENTIRE EXHIBIT dedicated to Alphonse Mucha??? The most fun I’ve had in a museum in ages!

Look I know liking Mucha is kind of cliche or whatever, but I couldn’t care less. His linework and figures are absolutely breathtaking. All we ever see are his posters and graphic print art, but his paintings and pastels are also just incredible.

muchapainting.JPG

If I could do figures as well as he could, I think I’d be happy. I definitely bought the catalogue and it was less than 30 euro so I’m counting it as a really good win.

Time to leave Rome with a parting photo of a 3-wheeled car in our hotel:

car.JPG

Honestly, how do you even drive these around corners? There’s a great video on Top Gear about that. Do yourself a favor and watch it.

And finally, a small picture of the locks on one of the bridges over the Tiber with an ancient Roman structure in the background. I hope the love charm worked for these people.

bridge.JPG

Enough from me! Have a good week everyone. Stay determined.


Clara in Italy: The Final Semester

September 1, 2016

So I realize that my abroad experiences aren’t the norm. In my time at UR, this will be perhaps the fourth time I’ve gone out of the country through a school-sponsored program. (Don’t worry, I know I’m unbelievably lucky. It’s pretty ridiculous.)  I’ve so far gone to Russia, Japan, and Denmark for an SSIR trip, a summer language program, and the traditional semester-abroad respectively. I don’t suppose Italy will be too frightening after all that! Some rather terrifying things have happened to me in Europe at this point (mostly of my own making), so I’m looking forward to a calmer experience this time around!

Uh. Famous last words or something?

Packing is, of course, stressful as usual, and I’m struggling to decide which art supplies to bring to an art program overseas. All of them?? Perhaps?? If I had the option, I’d only bring a single suitcase because I’ve discovered that the hassle of lugging things around is almost never worth what’s inside them, but I should probably remember things like laundry and medications and the like. Important.

A little bit about me: I’m short. And I’ve recently discovered the hobby of rotting down animal corpses in my backyard to collect and clean the bones! Here’s a selfie!

Processed with VSCO with b1 preset

Isn’t that all you need to know, really? A new friend just gifted me a lovely mouse skeleton that’s soaking in peroxide as I type. I’m really excited to see how it’ll turn out and if I can articulate it into a free-standing display. Not gonna lie, I’m pretty hype about the prospect of finding different species in Italy, especially birds that are non-native to the US since those would be legal to possess here in the states.

Here’s my first little collection of bones I found in a pile on my neighbor’s lawn:

Processed with VSCO with acg preset

Processed with VSCO with acg preset

Aren’t they pretty? I suspect they are also a mouse, or perhaps a small squirrel or rat. Some rodent in any case! Fun fact that I had to learn: those bones shown in close-up are apparently called bulla and they’re essentially where the ears connect to the skull. They were a mystery for a while before I asked the internet.

I’m from Rochester, NY, up by Lake Ontario where the snow falls fast and deep, and we have surprisingly fabulous sunsets and skies.

sunset2

sunset1

Pictures, of course, never do the sky justice.

In all seriousness, I’m not sure what to expect from Cortona, besides lots of art and massive hills. Since I’ve been working on my own interdisciplinary program, I’ve never had a full-on arts-only semester. This will be the first time I’ll be working in the studio for more than two classes at a time, and I’m uh, probably ready? At the very least, I’m looking forward to producing an actual body of work by the end of this semester before I graduate and am thrown to the real world. Motivation has always been a tricky thing for me, and I’ve found that I produce far more when I have consequences chasing me. (Don’t we all in the end? Sigh.)

Sadly, I don’t think I’ll be making it back to Europe for quite a while after this trip. Those expensive plane tickets and all. So I’m hoping to make the most of what time I do have there! I’m going to try and actually walk all over the city I live in this time, as opposed to the mistakes I made while in Denmark, and hopefully do some travelling on the weekends. Since I have no visa, I’ll have to leave the Schengen area four days after classes end (yikes), so it will be a speedy journey to the UK. At least, that’s the plan. Speaking of which! Mudlarking on the Thames!! Definitely looking forward to finding some 1500s equivalent to cigarette butts along the river. And bones.

On a more sober note, heard about the earthquake this morning, which was a generally distressing way to wake up. We’ve been notified that Cortona was unaffected, but the smaller towns near the epicenter sound like they’ve essentially been razed to the ground. So we’re all still going, but I expect the mood will be perhaps a little graver than our initial expectations. The death toll so far has risen almost 300% since 8am this morning, and I’m hoping it doesn’t go up any more.

To end on a happier note, here is a silly photo of my dog. Stay determined! I’ll see you all in Italy.

teddy1.JPG


Jiaqi in Italy: Coming to the Tuscan Heart – Volterra

December 2, 2015

Draped over the rising hillsides in central Tuscany,  Volterra is a stone-clad town topped with gorgeous medieval towers, and littered with
winding alleyways where swinging washing lines give way to blooming hanging baskets of rose flowers. Thanks to its high-perched position over the rolling plains, sweeping panoramas of Central Italy are available from most all of the flagstone-covered “piazzas”.

 

Etruscan town

Etruscan town

 

Last weekend, I revisited Pisa to see my Italian friend Gabriele and we decided to make a road trip to Volterra. After the sudden train strike and bus delay, we finally made it to the Etruscan hill town in late afternoon. The moment we stood by the panoramic view point overlooking the Roman theater, all efforts seemed worthwhile.

 

Roman theater

Roman theater

 

On the tuscan hill

On the tuscan hill

 

Volterra is a particular town built and razed by the Romans, the grand Tuscan dukes, and the formidable Medici family alike. Its historic centre plays host to ubiquitous basilicas, cobblestone streets, red-tiled roofs, while its sporadic piazzas are filled with the scent of intensively-flavored olive oils sourced straight from the hills. Hopefully, my photos of Volterra can give you a hint of the town’s irresistible, timelessly charm.

 

Color of Volterra

Color of Volterra

 

Street of Volterra

Street of Volterra

 

Sunset in Volterra

Sunset in Volterra


Jiaqi in Italy: Via Padova-the Multicultural Heart of Milan

December 1, 2015

The moment you get off the Loreto station and walk up to Via Padova, you enter the world of secret Milan. Multiculturalism is evident everywhere: from the South American restaurants, Chinese supermarkets, to the many money transfer service shops on every corner. With the often-heard rumor of this street being the “most dangerous” one in Milan, Via Padova captivates me to observe this chaotic neighborhood and the complexity of Milan as an immigrant city.

 

Street of via padova

Street of Via Padova

 

People of via padova

People of Via Padova

 

Southamerican service store

Southamerican service store

 

Chinese store

Chinese store

 

From the primary school full of immigrant children and the convenience stores in different languages, Via Padova is both a mysterious and simple neighborhood. From the obscure posters on the street walls and graffitis, you find prostitution ads as well as recruitment for a massage girl’s crew. On the other hand, this is not only the center for underground activities but the safety net for many foreign newcomers. Here they find their home cuisine, their people, their languages spoken, their comfort zones.

 

Arabic-style hair salon

Arabic-style hair salon

 

Via padova pubic school

Via Padova public school

 

If Milan’s international environment, on business conferences of daily life, have a special resonance with you, the streets of Via Padova will be a catalyst for the deeper revelation of Milan: a Milan of multiethnic character. Translating these multiethnic, chaotic street scenes into photographic images is the challenge I would like to address. While taking honest shots of pedestrians and street stores, I want to communicate the atmosphere and authentic air of this unusual neighborhood.

 

Bus station in Via Padova

Bus station in Via Padova

 


Jiaqi in Italy: Things I Wish I Knew Before Studying Abroad in Milan

November 12, 2015

1. Research about the city and know more than the touristic center

I can not be happier when I find out this incredibly valuable article that truly captures the essence of Milan. It helps me navigate the city and pull out the most intriguing, local spots immediately, in which some places that many expats in Milan would not even think of. Doing some research about the city you are going to is definitely the key to a happy new start in a new environment, since you will start seeing the best of the best, while others are probably still confused by the currency change.

 

View of the Piazza Duomo

View of the Piazza Duomo

 

View of Milan

View of Milan

 

2. Take it easy

No matter where we are, in our home university or anywhere around the world, the biggest problem facing us 20-somethings is purely peer pressure. Yes, you will find the competition out there once you start your first day of class. Ambitious youths compete against each other on how many new cities they have visited so far, how many European capitals that they have taken a stroll through, and perhaps how many new friends they have made. Studying abroad is not playing the statistic game that we have already tired of in school; it is rather a new chapter in our life in which we can choose to be the best version of ourselves. Why not enjoy it? Take your time, learn to cook the local cuisine, sip in a local specialty tea or drink, and marvel at the fall color in an exotic country.

 

Sunny afternoon in the park

Sunny afternoon in the park

 

Parco Sempione

Parco Sempione

 

3. Go Off the Beaten Path

Milan is much more than fifty shades of gray, a funny term that Italians use to refer to their country’s industrial city. The city’s hidden gems never cease to amaze me. Every neighborhood has a particular but equally charming vibe, either luxurious-chic, alternative-hip, or down-to-earth humbleness. Navigli, my favorite neighborhood in Milan, has the cutest cafes in town and some hidden mysteries that only the local history experts know. It used to be a working-class canal neighborhood where all the poor ladies washed laundry for rich families; it used to be the inspirational studio of Milan’s legendary artist Leonardo Da Vinci; it used to be an artist bottega where pupils sit by the canal from sunrise to sunset to draw people from lives. Learning the history of your city’s neighborhoods not only strengthens your understanding of the culture but also makes you much more an interesting guide when your family or friends come visit you.

 

Navigli neighborhood

Navigli neighborhood

 

Hidden garden in Navigli

Hidden garden in Navigli

 

4. Most importantly, embrace what you have!

It’s not that uncommon to hear complaints about a new, gigantic city from some abroad students. Depending on your own capacity to adapt to a radically different environment, moving to a new country is a personal revolution that will probably trigger resistance! What you need to do is simply to relax – and you’d be better to do it the local way. Take my city Milan as an example, relaxation means a “caffè” (italian expresso) in the afternoon, an aperitivo from the rooftop bar with views of Duomo, a stroll through the fashion district, a people-watching game at the chic crowd.

 

Duomo

Duomo


Jiaqi in Italy: Old-fashioned Market in Viale Papiniano

November 5, 2015
Typical vendor

Typical vendor

 

I have always had a passion for markets. Fresh produce straight coming from the farmers, cheeses, condiments, clothes, shoes, accessories, shoes, but also home objects. Strictly fresh, honest, low-price, and practical.

My journey in Milan began with a treasure hunt across different farmers’ markets in the city, in search of kitchen essentials, unique clothes, and an authentic view of the local Milanese people. Among all these markets in Milan, there is probably no more vibrant place like the one in Viale Papiniano. Upon entering the characteristically mundane plaza, I was immediately catapulted into the old-fashioned market atmosphere. Through a close look at the intense color and the natural human interactions, I want to present the veracity of the local life in Milan, a part of Milan that is less represented in mass media.

 

Cheese paradise

Cheese paradise

 

Cheese stand

Cheese stand

 

Cheese vendor

Cheese vendor

 

Passion for cheese has already become an important part of Italian identity. Milanese are no exception, and they for sure know what is good taste. Cheeses, “formaggi” in Italian, come in amazingly diverse variety and quantity in Papiniano market. Each cheese stand has its own specialty and character. My favorite, however, is the organic cheese stand that sells truffled-flavor cheese exclusively. With one little bite, the indescribable flavor of minerals from that far-away mountain has already convinced me.

 

Italian in-season produce

Italian in-season produce

 

Fruit vendor Muhammad

Fruit vendor Muhammad

 

Four Euros please

Four Euros please

 

It’s a great opportunity to see what fruit and vegetables are in season, and Italy has a fantastic range of diverse produce year-round. As what you would expect at a market, there is also the usual yelling and bargaining conversations, which makes it much more lively than a normal supermarket. The stand of Muhammad, a young immigrant from Pakistan, is my go-to place because he always greets me with a warm smile and often discounts.